2 Day Slow Boat Down the Mekong, Laos

A popular and cheap way to journey between Laos and Thailand, the 2 day slow boat allows you to enjoy the simple pleasures of the South East Asian landscape. Leaving from Luang Prabang in Laos, my tour group with GAdventures set off to join a family house boat for a 2 day long journey along the Mekong River.

The Mekong River flows through 6 countries from China to Vietnam and is essential to the locals who live there. Getting on at Luang Prabang I wasn’t sure what to expect. Luckily our group of 15 had the boat to ourselves so we had a lot of room. It’s a simple boat with chairs similar to seats on a coach, and then a table, small food preparation area and toilet at the back. It’s not the most comfortable seating but at least you can get up and walk around. After being introduced to the captain, his wife and small daughter, we started our journey.

I prepared beforehand with lots of water and snacks as it can be pricey on the boat. The group spent the first few hours chatting, gazing out the window and just taking it all in. I just watched the scenery breeze past, wind in my hair, staring at the lush jungle, small villages and fishermen. It felt very authentic drifting past these tiny villages, people watching and admiring the privilege of seeing these humbling towns.

A few hours into the journey, tired and bored I put my music on and gazed at the landscape, day dreaming as per usual. Later we played some cards with the local guide to pass the time. I also taught the captains young daughter how to play ‘memory’, her face lighting up every time she matched a pair of cards.

After around 8 or 9 hours we arrived at Pakbeng, a tiny little village marking the half way point of our journey and where we stayed the night. We jumped off the boat, immediately being greeted by what appeared to be the entire village children and teenage boys. They pulled and poked us trying to get our money in exchange for them carrying our bags. As we had transport organised we politely declined.

Pakbeng, Laos

Our accommodation was a small and very basic guesthouse. There were at least 2 geckos in my room which is fine as long as they don’t move! If you are arriving independently there’s no need to book in advance as rooms are readily available and very cheap. The main street is mostly basic accommodation and small cafes and restaurants and I like that it’s in keeping with the quiet boat ride along the river.

Day 2 is pretty much the same, another long day but even though the scenery is pretty much the same the whole time, it never seemed to tire. I travelled in monsoon season so as the rain hit I just watched and listened to the sounds, drifting off as we lazily drifted down the river. I like that time on the boat is a break away from the hustle of constant travel; a chance to read a book or just sit and think. Sometimes when travelling we don’t get the chance to just sit and reflect. It’s only once we’re back home that we realise what an incredible adventure we’ve just had.

Baci Ceremony

During the second day the captain and his wife perform a ‘Baci Ceremony’ for all of us. This Laotian custom is said to bring back spirits to the body, keeping your health and happiness and is usually performed before big events such as a wedding or travel. It will bring us good luck along our way.

We made small, coconut rice candies, wrapping them in banana leaf and then folding them into triangles ready to be cooked. They came back out on a centre piece and we listened to the captain giving the blessing. He then tied 3 pieces of string around each wrist before saying another prayer, binding the spirits in place. Theses strings should be kept on until they fall off naturally.

Making sweet treats

Bringing good luck

So my journey along the Mekong came to an end as we arrived in Huay Xai, where we caught a tuk tuk to the border crossing into Thailand. Even though it was a long boat ride it really gave a glimpse into Laotian life and was a chance to relax and just take in the nature all around. Yes, at times it was boring but if I had the choice of a 1 day bus ride or the 2 day slow boat I definitely know which one I would pick!

Heading into Thailand from Laos? Check out North Thailand: Pai or Chiang Rai?
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