Not gonna lie, Salar de Uyuni is THE reason I wanted to come to Bolivia. After checking the Bolivian salt flats on google I decided I just HAD to go there. And it didn’t disappoint. Here’s the story of my journey from La Paz to Salar de Uyuni and back again.
12 Hour Bus
So, beginning in the capital city of La Paz, Bolivia, I join another girl Laura from my hostel and we get a taxi to the station. This taxi ride lasted 3 minutes- literally! But we have heavy bags and it’s dark (totally justifiable). We get on the 12 hour bus down South to the dusty town of Uyuni. This bus is the bumpiest bus I’ve ever travelled on!
Actually extremely amusing as I make my way down the back, almost falling on top of this one guy who is definitely not amused. I sit on the toilet, holding on for dear life as I’m flying off the seat whilst trying to pee. The door is so stiff and I push it hard to open and fly out across the bus (I mean I really fly!) and just cannot stop laughing, everyone staring like I’m a mad woman. Eventually we arrive in Uyuni and I wander off to find my tour company.
Trains in the Desert
My friend is on another jeep but after meeting my new group for 3 days I’m happy and we set off into the vast wilderness. It’s very eerie as we drive through this ghost town, with few people around and extremely quiet. First stop is a group of abandoned trains, right in the middle of the dessert.
We stop for pictures and to explore, checking out the Chilean mountains in the distance and in eager anticipation of seeing Salar de Uyuni. It’s like the whole town just decided to leave one day and everything is kinda left how it was. I feel like I’m stumbling across ruins that have yet to be found. We have a simple lunch of beef, rice and vegetables, served right at the back of the van. It’s surprisingly tasty.
Its Salty Time!
So time for the salt flats. After getting back in the jeep we drive on once more. Salar de Uyuni looks just like the photos, endless white and endless blue skies… that’s pretty much it! We climb a small hill with bizarre shapes made up from cacti and take in the surroundings of this strange and surreal place.
Back down on the salt flats we take fun perspective pictures using props for creativity (just google it, there’s tonnes of them!). Then we drive to our hostel in the middle of nowhere. Well actually it’s called a ‘refuse’ as you’re not allowed to have hostels in the National Park.
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A hotel made of salt?
I’m standing in the salt hotel. Yep, this unusual ‘refuse’ is made entirely out of salt from the walls, tables, chairs and beds- everything salt. Interesting place! We sit in the dining area and accidentally eat the other groups biscuits- oops! They were on a more expensive tour and we’re only supposed to have crackers haha. The dinner itself is ok but pretty basic and not hugely exciting. Went straight to bed like a grandmother.
Laguna Colorada
In the morning after Salar de Uyuni we visit a volcano, and the ‘rainbow’ lake that is named Laguna Colorada. I cant even explain how stunning it is, like nothing I’ve seen before. The lake is coloured red, blue and white, with wild flamingos around the edge.
The landscape is so vast, we literally are in the middle of now where. I love the contrasting colours of the lake and orange rocky terrain. Back in the jeep, which by the way has now turned into an incredibly HOT green house as the driver has had to shut the windows because there’s so much dust. Not a fun ride but Salar de Uyuniย and Laguna Colorada absolutely make up for it.
After stopping to help a broken down jeep we head to the ‘rock tree’. A tree made out of rock obviously! This section looks like the Australian outback or something. Very brown and dusty- and windy!
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Shooting Star
We arrive at our second nights accommodation, 6 beds and a tiny room with fairly grotty bathroom but its fine as we are all so tired. Once dark we head outside to check out the sky. Oh my goodness! It’s AMAZING!! So dark but sooo many stars! And big too, they are actually twinkling!
I see a shooting star which is the icing on the cake over a sky I’ve never seen so beautiful. At 4600mt, I’m feeling a little sick from the altitude. The Aussie girl from my group gives me an anti nausea at dinner which knocks me out (pretty much at the dinner table) and I have the strangest dreams that night.
I’m on Another Planet
Felling much better in the morning I wake at 5am for the final day of adventure. The scenery has changes a bit today as we check out geysers and an active volcano with smoke rising from the ground. I feel like I’m on mars.
To top it off we are taken to the hot springs! Oh yes! Out in the open, with never ending views all around, it’s the perfect way to unwind after a dusty and exhausting few days. The hot water slowly works it magic until my legs are heavy and my mind is cleared. Just one more stop to go.
The final place, Laguna Verde, is a lake that turns green when the wind blows, reacting with a chemical in the water. Pretty insane. This short stop marks the end of the tour- oh except now we have to drive all the way back.
8 hours in a Dusty Sweat Box
So finally head back to Uyuni. I’m stuck in the back of the jeep in a tiny space, which has now turned into dust central. It’s everywhere- even up my nose! It takes a gruelling 8 hours back and very bumpy. What’s worse is I now have only 2 hours before my night bus back to La Paz. Oh the joys of travel. This is what they don’t tell you.
I get on the bumpy bus and after several hours start falling asleep just as the bus is stopping?. It’s 2am in the morning the bus has just stopped by the side of the road. In half dream/zombie mode I’m as confused as much as the other passengers, as we are told to get off the bus and to wait.
Another bus coming from the opposite direction pulls up. The passengers from this bus get off and the driver tells us to switch buses, bags and all for no apparent reason! So weird! After a gruelling and quite confusing journey I check back in to the hostel at La Paz and have a well earned rest.
Yes, I think that was worth it. What do you think? Would you go through the bumpy, dusty journey for those views?! Tell me below.
A few tips:
- Make sure you book with a reputable company as there have been quite a few stories of drivers getting drunk or driving recklessly.
- Be prepared. Pack sunscreen, sunglasses, snacks, water, swimmers and have batteries charged, etc
- The highest point is 4600mt so acclimatise gradually before the trip
- You can book a 1, 3, or 4 day tour, leaving from Uyuni or Tupiza (Bolivia) or San Pedro de Atacama (Chile). Uyuni is the most popular. Pick the longer tour, 1 day would be pointless.
- There is time to get the night bus from La Paz, jump straight on the jeep tour the following morning and then get the night bus back to La Paz after the tour ends on day 3.
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