Incredible 3 Week India Itinerary

India is such a vibrant place, full of life, colours, smells, noise, and incredible scenery. This India itinerary is based on a tour which I took with GAdventures a few years ago. I think it gave a great all-round insight into the best places, from the busy cities in the Northern end of the country, to the more relaxed feel down South.

Whilst it is definitely possible to do this itinerary by yourself (and I will try to provide helpful links for which transport and accommodation to book), remember that it can be quite difficult to travel around India at times. The trains are often delayed, and local buses crowded, so booking a tourist bus at a slightly higher price could be a good often. Don’t let that deter you though, travelling on a local train or bus can be an insightful way to see the culture and get a real glimpse into Indian life!

With India, in particular the busy cities like Delhi and Jaipur, you are sort of thrown in the deep end and immediately out of your comfort zone. It was like no other place I have been before, but also hugely exciting to travel around. India is such an exciting destination to visit.

… Right, let’s get too it shall we? Here is a 3 week India itinerary to show you the best bits of the country!

First of all- Is India Safe for Solo Female Travellers?

I would say in general, yes but do take precautions and remain aware of your surroundings at all times. I personally would feel a little uncomfortable travelling alone in India, which is why I booked a tour group; however, many women do travel solo here with minimal problems.

When it comes to using public transport, definitely travel during the day and avoid taking tuk tuks or other transport options at night. If this is unavoidable you could try and book a women’s only carriage on the train or sit close to the driver and/or other women and ensure you are dressed modestly also.

As a woman travelling alone in India you will get a LOT of stares from men, who will also want pictures with you or take pictures of you sneakily. In general, they are just curious but try not to talk to them for too long in duration, as not to give away the wrong impression, as they may start to assume that you are interested in them. Keep it short, polite but firm.

Walking around in the day should be ok but you will still get many stares and men trying to talk to you. You will also get other women or families asking to have your picture with you. This is down to you of course, but generally they are just interested in you as they may not see many foreigners. If you are alone, I would perhaps not have your photo if it were only men asking, as there may be a small crowd that starts to gather, or you will get more of them asking for your photo.

I was alone for one day in Delhi and found it helpful to hire a driver. That way I just had to walk around the various attractions by myself, and then the driver would be waiting for me outside. This saves having to hail down a taxi and ensures you can book a reputable company beforehand.

When on public transport, keep your belongings with you and padlocked. If using a sleeper train, you could padlock your bag to yourself somehow, so you will wake up if someone tries to snatch it. Also be aware of scams from taxis or rickshaws, for example a taxi may say that the restaurant or hotel you want to go to is ‘closed’ but he knows a better one. Likely he will get a commission from this place for bring in in business. Always be firm and say you want to go to the original place, or simply say you will find another taxi/ rickshaw.

Whilst taking a public bus can be a great experience, always be mindful when travelling solo. Some buses the women will all sit at the front, so try and sit next to other women if possible. If you don’t feel safe on public transport, booking a tourist bus or going through a private company could be a better option. Also booking first class on the trains can feel safer too, and the prices are still reasonable.

Booking a decent accommodation or a hostel can also help you feel more safe and secure as a female traveller in India. While there are some nicer looking hotels that are reasonably priced, you may find you actually feel safter in a more budget hostel, surrounded by other backpackers. I remember the hotel I stayed at in Delhi looked fairly ok, but I don’t remember seeing any other guests and there were only men on reception. I think I would have felt better being around other travellers.

Travelling solo as a woman in India does have its challenges but is definitely still possible, you just need to keep your wits about you! Remember booking a tour or lots of individual day tours can be a great way to see the sights and meet new people.

Ok so here is the 3 week (21 days) India itinerary…

Day 1 – Delhi

I arrived at New Delhi at night, and I have to say, I was a little nervous. Thankfully I had pre-booked my taxi, who was waiting for me at arrivals. Immediately you can see the poverty around, from the long lines of homeless people lining the streets of the government building (and all of whom were gone the next day). It hits you straight away and it can be quite a shock, although perhaps not completely unexpected.

That aside, I was excited to explore Delhi. As I was alone, I booked a taxi driver who drove me around several places in the city, including the Delhi Gate which links New Delhi to the city of old Delhi, as well as exploring the monument of Qutub Minar. This 238 feet tall tower is the tallest in India and was built in the early 13th century. There are also many temples to explore around Delhi, such as the unique Lotus temple, Akshardham Temple, Chhatarpur Temple, and Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir.

There are so many places to eat in Delhi too, you will be spoilt for choice! The street food will taste delicious but be a little cautious to avoid the old ‘Delhi belly’. I would suggest going to a busy looking local restaurant for an authentic experience or treat yourself to a fancy restaurant!

Accommodation in Delhi:
Budget: Madpackers Hostel 
Mid-range: The Grand Uddhav 
Luxury: The Imperial 

Booking.com

Day 2 – Delhi to Agra (Taj Mahal)

To make the most of the day, I would suggest getting the early train from Delhi to Agra, which should take around 2 to 3 hours. I believe I was on first class (tickets still reasonably priced), which will serve you a basic breakfast. Here is a helpful post on transport options from Delhi to Agra.

You will want to stop off in Agra as this is home to the beautiful Taj Mahal, which is certainly not one to miss. You generally do have a “wow” moment at first sight, and once you hear the love story behind it, you will enjoy your visit even more! I would suggest going to the Taj Mahal at either sunrise or sunset (I went at sunset which was pretty busy, so would assume that sunrise would be much quieter).

Before or after your visit to the Taj Mahal, another great option for your India itinerary is a visit to the Red Fort in Agra. This impressive fort, built in the 16th century is made from red sandstone and covers 380,000 square metres. Both the Taj Mahal and Red Fort should take around 2 hours each to visit and sit 2.5km apart (around 15 minutes). You can easily get to the Red Fort from the Taj Mahal by train from Agra Railway station, or by bus, taxi, or rickshaw. Please note that the Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays.

Accommodation in Agra:
Budget: Joey’s Hostel 
Mid-range: The Coral House Homestay 
Luxury: Courtyard by Marriott Agra 

Day 3 – Agra to Jaipur

On day 3 of your India itinerary, take a bus (around 7 hours) or a train to Jaipur (the train would be a lot faster at around 4 hours). Jaipur is commonly known as the ‘pink city’ after the city was painted in pink tones to welcome Prince Albert (Queen Victoria’s husband) in 1876. The city is an exciting place to visit and has an energy and liveliness about it.

Don’t miss viewing the stunning architecture of the Hawa Mahal, the City Place, and the Jal Mahal (an historic place in the middle of the lake).

My tour group also went to watch a Bollywood movie at the theatre (which is impressive in itself). Although not in English, you can mostly follow along and it was such a fun experience. Every time there was a romantic scene the audience would start to cheer, clap, stand up, etc….it was pretty funny! 😊 So grab yourself some popcorn and enjoy this unique experience.

Accommodation in Jaipur:
Budget: Moustache Hostel 
Mid-range: Magpie Villa 
Luxury: Jai Mahal Palace 

Booking.com

Day 4 – Jaipur

One of my favourite places to visit in Jaipur was the Amber Fort. The inside walls have some stunning mosaic displays made from tiny mirrors, paintings, and carvings, which makes for a pretty picture. Allow yourself a good amount of time (around 3 hours) to enjoy Amber Fort or do a guided tour to learn more about the history of the place. You will also find some great spots for a photo here!

If you have extra time then head to the markets, which are really fun to walk around, or just enjoy the gorgeous architecture of the city.

Day 5 – Jaipur to Tordi Sagar

The next stop on your India itinerary is the small village of Tordi Sagar. As this is a small place, you may have to book a private vehicle or taxi driver for the journey, which should take around 2 to 2.5 hours from Jaipur.

Tordi Sagar was one of my favourite places to visit in India and was a welcome breath of fresh air from the hustle and bustle of the busy cities. The locals are pretty used to seeing tourists now, due to the tour groups that pass through here, but they still seemed really interested in talking to the visitors and are all so friendly, happily stopping for a chat.

Walking through the village is a lovely experience and I felt a lot safer here than in the big cities (still, avoid walking at night though). There’s quite a bit to do here for a small place, including a jeep drive to the sand dunes to watch the sunset, or even a hike up the hills for sunrise, which is most definitely worth the early rise. Walking around the village, you will also see the local crafts men and women working on their pottery or paintings.

Accommodation in Tordi Sagar: I’m pretty sure the family run Hotel Tordi Garh is the only place to really stay here. The owners are incredibly friendly, and the complex is spacious, including the rooms. We even had local women come and do our henna, which was a nice experience.

Day 6 – Tordi Sagar to Pushkar

Again, you will likely have to book a private vehicle for the 4 hour drive to Pushkar, through some lovely scenery along the way. Pushkar, with its holy lake, it situated close to the desert and has quite a laid-back vibe.

As it is a holy place, alcohol, meat, and eggs are not allowed here and the lake is considered sacred. You could also take part in a blessing ceremony on the lake, which is a great experience, but be aware of certain scams. It is best to arrange this through your accommodation or a recommended guide.

There are some really great markets here too, where you can pick up some great souvenirs or clothing at cheap prices.

Accommodation in Pushkar:
Budget: Hostelavie
Mid-range: Gulaab Niwaas Palace 
Luxury: Countryside Cove by Vista Rooms 

Day 7 – Pushkar

If you can, find someone to go with you at dawn (so you are not walking in the dark alone) for the sunrise over the hilltop temple of Savitri. It’s not too much of a hike but the views over the distant mountains, desert, and the city below are gorgeous. There were also many monkeys jumping around here which provided much entertainment.

After some breakfast in the town, some of my group had a yoga class on top of the roof, which was an amusing experience as the guy running it was making some funny ‘mooing’ noises which gave a few of us the giggles. It was a great way to start the day though, and a must for any yogis out there!

I also took a camel ride with my group, through the town and out into the mountains and desert. Here, we got to try on some traditional women’s clothing, as well as watch a dance and magic show, under the sunset of the desert.

There are also overnight camping tours which you can book online, through your accommodation or a local operator in the town.

Day 8 – Pushkar to Udaipur

Today will be one of the longest days on this India itinerary. Going from Pushkar to Udaipur will involve quite a long train journey (around 7 to 8 hours), although this is also such a great way to travel, as you really get to experience the vast scenery along the way.

My group took the second or third-class train, which had no air con and was HOT. Whilst yes, it was a little uncomfortable I am also glad I got to experience a more authentic way to travel. Sometimes standing by the door with the wind in your face can feel much better than the aircon carriage anyways! Read my previous post for more tips on train travel in India.

Getting the early train will get you to Udaipur around late afternoon, giving you time for a quick walk around this artisan city, also known as India’s, most romantic city, or ‘Venice of the East’. Take a sunset boat cruise around lake Pichola, taking in the impressive palace in the middle of the water.

Accommodation in Udaipur:
Budget: goSTOPS Udaipur 
Mid-range: The Sierra – By The Lake 
Luxury: Taj Fateh Prakash Palace 

Booking.com

Day 9 – Udaipur

There is plenty to do in this pretty city, which has many temples and palaces to explore in the local area, as well as markets, cycling tours, cooking classes, cultural shows, and painting workshops.

You will see many artists shops, markets and clothing stalls, making it a great place to enjoy a shopping trip. Discover some of the handmade arts and crafts or simply wander around and enjoy this great city and its architecture. A walk around the Saheliyon-ki-Bari Garden is really relaxing.

Some temples to explore in Udaipur include Udaipur City Palace, Jagdish Temple, the Lake Palace, Bohra Ganesh Temple, and Eklingji Temple (which is 22km away, but very popular).

Day 10 – Udaipur

Explore a second full day in Udaipur on day 10 of this 3 week India itinerary! Some of the places and temples are a short way out from the city so can take most of the day (there are so many temples to explore here!). Or you could simply just take some time to relax in this beautiful city, enjoying the delicious food.

Day 11 – Udaipur to Ahmedabad

From Udaipur you can take a bus to Ahmedabad, where you will find a nice riverfront, museums, and a good night market. Take a visit to the Gandhi Ashram at Sabarmati, where Gandhi called home for around 12 years. Learn about India’s walk to freedom and other historic sites.

From here, you could either get an overnight sleeper train onto Mumbai (saving a night’s accommodation) or wait until the morning train and arrive to Mumbai in the afternoon the next day.

Accommodation in Ahmedabad:
Budget: Hotel Krishna 
Mid-range: Hotel Riverview 
Luxury: Renaissance Ahmedabad Hotel 

Day 12 – Mumbai

If you got the overnight train from Ahmedabad, then you will have the entire day to explore Mumbai. If you decide to take the early train from Ahmedabad, then you will arrive to Mumbai sometime in the afternoon.

There are plenty of things to do in Mumbai, and even more places to eat, so you will be spoilt for choice to eat out! Take a wander to Mumbai’s main railway station, which has some impressive colonial-era architecture from the 19th century. Another great option is to have an afternoon tea in the beautiful Taj hotel.

From the Gateway of India, you can also take a boat trip to explore Elephant Island. This UNESCO World Heritage site has old temples, ruins, carvings, courtyards, and caves to explore. You could also spend a few hours visiting the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya Museum (or Prince of Wales Museum of Western India).

Accommodation in Mumbai:
Budget: Namastey Mumbai Backpackers 
Mid-range: Theory9 Premium Service Apartments 
Luxury: The Taj Mahal Tower 

Day 13 – Mumbai to Goa

On day 13 of your India itinerary, you could choose to spend the morning exploring some more of Delhi or jump on an early flight to Goa (around 1 hour 15 minutes flight time). Goa is on the beach and you will see many backpackers here, with a much more touristy vibe. There are plenty of hostels and other travellers around, as well as a great nightlife, cafes, restaurants, and markets to explore.

Here, you can enjoy some time relaxing on the beautiful beaches and rejuvenate after several days of travelling. Some of the surrounding beaches include Calangute beach, Palolem beach, Vagator beach, Majorda beach and Anjuna beach. You will find a much more relaxed vibe down here. The nightlife is good, with some pretty cool clubs, so staying in a hostel would be a great chance to make some new friends to go out with.

Accommodation in Goa:
Budget: Dreams Hostel 
Mid-range: Chalet Saffron Goa 
Luxury: Taj Resort & Convention Centre 

Booking.com

Day 14- Goa

If you can drag yourself away from the beach or pool, then Goa has a big Portuguese heritage, and this is seen in the churches, temples, and buildings around the area. Explore some of these sights and discover some of the local history. You could also book yourself on a spice plantation tour to discover some local flavours.

You could also book a tour to take you to the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and the nearby Dudhsagar Falls, where you can go for a refreshing swim.

Day 15 – Goa to Kochi

Just over a 3 hour plane ride will get you to Kochi, right at the Southern end of India. Kochi is a fishing city with several tiny islands nearby.

Here, you will also see the Portuguese heritage evident in the architecture. Take a visit to Mattancherry Palace (or Dutch Palace), where you can see intricate murals and paintings.

Head down to the waterfront to see the traditional Chinese fishing nets (great for photography at sunrise or sunset).

Accommodation in Kochi:
Budget: Hostel Santa Maria 
Mid-range: Cherai Beach Retreat 
Luxury: Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty 

Day 16 – Kochi to Alleppey

For day 16 of your India itinerary, travel to Alleppey (1.5 hours) by bus or taxi. For the bus journey you can go to Ernakulam KSRTC Bus Station and get a direct bus to Alleppey (Alappuzha). From the website it also seems you can book a woman only seat too! There may be other bus options, or you could always ask the reception desk of where you are staying to offer any local advice on travel options.

Once arrived at Alleppey, you will be transported into a tranquil and calm peacefulness, with palm trees, backwaters, happy, smiling people and some of the best sunsets going. This is a stark contrast to the busy cities at the start of the trip and I’m sure you will find it a welcome break.

There are plenty of accommodation options here from luxury to budget homestays (these homestays are often well worth the low-price tag too, and the hosts always super friendly and welcoming). I stayed at one right on the canal, with a lovely hammock right outside my room and views of the stunning backwaters.

The backwater sunset boat ride is a must and one of the best skies I have seen! Allow yourself to wind down, sit and read a book, watch the water, wildlife and just enjoy doing nothing. Take a wander around the town and have a chat with the friendly locals. Where I stayed they also had a small spice plantation on site and the owner walked us round, explaining how they use each spice or plant for various purposes.

Accommodation in Alleppey:
Budget: Golden Beach Home Stay 
Mid-range: Neela Waters – Beach Homestay 
Luxury: Sunsets and Palm Trees 

Booking.com

Day 17- Alleppey to Kollam

Wake up to a beautiful sunrise on day 17 of your India itinerary, and then book a boat cruise to see the canals during the day. You’ll see coconut palm trees and life along the riverfront villages. Then you can take a bus to Kollam (takes around 3 hours), which is a port city in the state of Kerala.

Once in Kollam you could climb the Thangassery Light House for views out over the ocean, take a visit to Thevally Palace (a mix of Dutch, British and Portuguese architecture) or relax on the beach. There are also lots of temples dotted around the area. For photographers Neendakara Fishing Harbour has many great photo opportunities.

Accommodation in Kollam:
Budget: Munroe Coconut Homestay 
Mid-range: Ashtamudi Villas 
Luxury: The Raviz Ashtamudi 

Day 18 – Kollam to Varkala

On day 18 of this India itinerary, get a train or bus to Varkala, which is situated on the coast. This is a nice place to relax on the beach, or even hire out a surfboard or bodyboard and enjoy the waves. The waves can get fairly big so I would suggest going in the water with someone else as I don’t remember seeing any lifeguards.

The town is really pretty, with lots of little cafes and shops lined up on the cliff overlooking the ocean. You could also pay a visit to Janardhana Swamy temple and Varkala temple. You can also visit Anjengo Fort and Light House. The fort was the first British settlement in India, reflected in the European architecture of the building.

Accommodation in Varkala:
Budget: Zostel Varkala 
Mid-range: Mango Villa
Luxury: Elixir Cliff Beach Resort and Spa 

Day 19 – Varkala

Enjoy another day at the beach, Kappil Beach has some beautiful views of the Arabian sea. You could also try a yoga class, get a relaxing massage, or be treated by a spiritual healer. The Varkala Culture Centre is a great option to learn more about the history and heritage of the area.

Day 20 – Varkala to Kochi

Head back to Kochi via train or bus and explore some more of this port city before either heading back home or continuing on your travels. You could take a visit to St Francis Church, which is the oldest church in India. For your final night, why not watch a traditional Kathakali Dance, with the colourful costumes and face paint, is it amazing to watch, and one of the oldest dances in India.

Day 21 – Last Day

Well, that wraps up 3 weeks of this awesome India itinerary. From here you can take a flight back home (boo!) or on to further travels! I hope this India itinerary gave you some inspiration and ideas for your amazing trip!

Best Time to Visit India

Generally, the best time to visit India is between October and March, when the weather is dry, sunny, and warm but not crazy hot yet. May to June will be very hot, particularly down the south of India.

For the Holi festival, go in March (it will be pretty hot though). Avoid the coastal towns down south from June to August, as this is monsoon season. November, December, and January are the best times to visit the beaches, such as goa, although it will be busy at this time.

I hope this India itinerary was helpful. Let me know what you thought of this post below, or make suggestions for more things to do in India!